Wednesday, 26 November 2014

Food and Factory Merge at the Maltby Street Market

I don't know about you, but when I think of a food market, I usually picture rows of vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables in the sunshine with a sprinkling of craft stalls and prepared food vendors thrown in for good measure.

London's Maltby Street Market at Ropewalk isn't that. 

Ropewalk is a narrow alley, about the length of a city block, situated in Bermondsey, steps from the Thames and within eye-shot of the Shard.  

At one end is Jensen's Gin Distillery and at the other, Buddy's Buyz, a junk shop filled with an eclectic jumble of second hand vintage treasures.  While I was there having a browse, Buddy was humming along to a Beatles record playing on a turntable.  After a few minutes I joined in.

The start of the Saturday afternoon lunch crush
Lost luggage, coffee sack cushions and a 16th century ladder - a few of the re-purposed treasures at LASSCO

On one side of the alley is a huge warehouse and retail space owned by architectural  salvaging specialist LASSCO. Their shop is beautifully organized and filled with interesting re-purposed goods making it a destination unto itself.  

Opposite LASSCO and spanning the length of Ropewalk is a succession of 6 metre high, arch-fronted weathered brick barrel vaults.  Above the barrel vaults is a railway bridge. 

During the week, LASSCO stockpiles reclaimed wood, floorboards, and industrial equipment within the barrel vaults. But on the weekends, food vendors arrive to create pop-up cafes, complete with cooking equipment, tables, chairs, and food displays, transforming the space from industrial stockyard to the Maltby Street Market.

And why not?  The stockyard is closed on the weekends and given London's often wet weather, the arches are a perfect place to keep dry and set up dining and food prep areas. 

I'd be the first to admit that it sounds odd on paper but this unlikely union creates a unique, vibrant, and completely enchanting place.  Photographically it was a gem.

Having lived in Monaco and France for almost 15 years, a collaboration of this sort would be unlikely here.  Interdit!  Pas possible!  Complètement fous!  (Not allowed!, not possible!, completely crazy!)  But here it was in London, it was genius, and by 10 o'clock it was completely packed with customers.

If you're looking to buy fruits and vegetables you'd probably be better off fighting the crowds at the Borough MarketIf, on the other hand, you're looking for a place to meet friends, do a bit of shopping and enjoy a meal of sustainable foods prepared by passionate British food artisans, in an unusual and inspired setting, this would be it.

Bring your camera, an appetite and arrive early.


One fresh food vendor and a Focaccia craftsman
Salmon and forklift
Fresh oysters, spinakopita and a good variety of fresh bread

Friday, 17 October 2014

Mare's Milk

Even though I never drink milk of any kind other than a wee spoon of foam stirred into my Caffè d'orzo when I'm in Italy, I couldn't resist buying a bottle of mare's milk or Lait de Jument when I spotted it in the cooler at my local natural foods shop. Milk from a horse?  How strange is that?  Of course I had to try it.

Cow's milk on the left, horse milk on the right.  The horse milk is a lot whiter
From that same cooler in recent years I've had sheep milk, goat milk and unpasteurized cow's milk, all of which were delicious and made excellent fresh cheeses when I didn't know what to do with the rest of it after I'd had a few sips. The French seem to excel at dairy products of all kinds.  If you've ever seen the football-field length of the dairy section at any Carrefour Supermarché you'd know what I mean.

I had an idea of what the goat and sheep milk would taste like because I eat fresh goat and sheep milk cheeses now and again but I had no such clue for mare's milk.

I cracked the seal and poured a bit of it into a glass and without further ado, down the hatch it went.

It tasted surprisingly plain and watery, like a skimmed cow's milk with a bit of chestnut honey added. There was no single prominent flavour like you find with a goat's milk for instance.

I can't say it would ever replace cow's milk but the producer, Chevalait, lists numerous health benefits on its website and Facebook page.  

In their farm just west of Paris, the Belgian owners, a husband and wife team, keep about 180 mares who collectively produce about 90,000 litres of milk per year.  They ship the fresh milk to health food shops within France, Belgium and Germany.  They also manufacture other mare's milk products such as soap, cosmetics, and powdered milk.
If you're a mare's milk lover and you have €2,000 burning a hole in your pocket, you can adopt one of their mares and earn 5.5% interest paid out as €110 worth of milk every year.  Not a bad return for betting on a horse!

Would I buy horse milk again?  Probably not.  But speaking of benefits, I did find my daily run curiously easier than usual the following day.

Saturday, 24 May 2014

Making Marmalade with Vivian Lloyd

Vivien's handful of just picked bitter orange

Back in February when I told one of my foodie friends that marmalade expert Vivien Lloyd was paying me a visit, our conversation went something like this...

"Vivien Lloyd?" she asked, her voice rising with excitement.  "You mean THE Vivien Lloyd, the marmalade expert?"

"Yes, that Vivien Lloyd," I replied, cool as a cucumber.  "Do you know her?"

"Of course I do,"  "I have all her books," she replied. "You're kidding right?"

"No I'm not kidding," I countered.  "She'll be here for a few days during the Lemon Festival and we're going to make marmalade together."

"OMG!" she yelped, a note of envy in her voice.

OMG indeed!  I couldn't believe my luck.

Our get together would be a leap of faith for both of us.  We'd never met before nor even spoken to each other.  We'd tweeted back and forth about citrus fruit and I'd learned a lot about marmalade and jam making from reading posts on Vivien's website.  From time to time I tweeted photos of the citrus growing in our garden but when I tweeted a photo our kumquat trees dripping with plump, luscious, bright orange kumquats, she may have decided it was high time she flew in for a closer look.
Vivien and her kumquat tree, Lady Marmalde
I post from time to time about marmalade on Gustia (some would say, gone on and on) and also about the exceptional quality of Menton's citrus so when I suggested to Vivien that Menton's Annual Lemon Festival would be an ideal time to visit, the deal was done.
Giant orange and lemon sculptures at Menton's Annual Fête du Citron
No doubt about it, she has the Midas touch when it comes to marmalade.  Seven of this year's winners in the World's Original Marmalade Awards in Cumbria had been taught or mentored by her.  What an exceptional opportunity this was for me to learn her techniques first hand and raise my preserving game.

Her visit seemed to fly by.  Over three days, while we discussed, picked, prepared, cooked, potted, dined and chatted, I learned the many subtleties and nuances behind making Vivien's award winning marmalades. 

An overnight soak for the orange peel to soften it
The beginning of lemon-lavender marmalade
Testing the set.  This is ready
The morning after for the peel in our three-fruit marmalade
It wasn't all nose to the preserving pan though.  We visited two of my favourite food markets, one in Ventimiglia, Italy and one in Menton, France.  We acted like tourists at the Lemon Festival and indulged in a bit of shopping for good measure.
A little citrus retail therapy
We bought a kumquat tree and one of Vivien's Twitter followers crowned it "Miss Mamalade."  It now resides on one of our terraces snuggled between ancient olive trees and mature bitter orange trees. I promised to send Vivien all of Miss Marmalade's kumquats in perpetuity.

Perfect bitter orange marmalade
On the last night  of our visit we prepared Vivien's special lemon curd by combining some of Menton's coveted lemons and some super fresh eggs we'd bought from a local Paysanne vendor.  The preparation was wondrously slow, an exercise in patience and observation.  The taste and texture was sublime.
Sublime, delicious lemon curd
Throughout our visit I kept thinking we need more people like Vivien.  People who reach out and are passionate, talented and generous about helping others and sharing their immense knowledge.

We parted friends and talked about collaborating on a future project or two.

One thing's for sure, I have a new understanding about marmalade and I'm so grateful that we were able to share three inspiring days together.

I scored a Silver Certificate at last year's Original Marmalade Awards. Next year, I'm going for gold.

Sunday, 30 March 2014

Citron Carpaccio and a Change of Heart

Every spring, I go on a bit of a citrus binge at the local markets, buying up bergamots, kumquats, grapefruit and citron whenever I spot them followed by a leisurely afternoon in the kitchen making marmalade and jam.  I've been getting some interesting results with poaching citron peel so I'm always especially on the lookout for them.

Even though they resemble a lemon in shape and colour, citron certainly don't taste like a lemon.  They have a thick, spongy, white pith with a tiny bit of sour flesh in the centre.  The bumpy skin has a soft lemon flavour but none of the intensity nor acidity of a lemon.  They're traditionally used for making preserves or candied peel.

In France, citron are called cédrat and in Italy they're cedro. No one would fault you for walking right by the knobbly, misshapen looking citron while thinking, "something is seriously wrong with those lemons!" 

But this post really isn't about the citron and what to make with it.  It's about simplicity and a culinary change of heart.

Cedro in the Ventimiglia market:  "Brutti ma buoni."  Ugly but good
If you've ever bought anything from a food vendor in Italy or France, more often then not, they'll advise you in the most detailed and definitive way, the perfect thing to make with what you're buying.  Take this morning for example.  I bought a small black truffle and some wine from a vendor in Italy and our conversation went something like this:  "This wine is excellent with poached fish, especially Dorade, and remember to add some rosemary with the poaching water and lots of salt, but remember to use sea salt, not regular salt" he continued, "and the best thing for the truffle is to use a young olive oil and shave it on scrambled eggs and by the way, I hear Vincenzo's artichokes are very good today, very tender, but a bit expensive."  Me nodding politely.

Their advice is usually about how use their ingredients to prepare meat or fish dishes and since I'm a vegetarian, their words generally go in one ear and out the other.  I confess that over the years I've become a bit blasé and adept at tuning out most of what they have to say, while I politely smile, thank them, and then head off to the next stand.  But this morning I had a change of heart. 

This year and last, after buying citron at the markets in Italy and France, three different vendors recommended that I eat it thinly sliced and topped with olive oil and salt.  Sounded crazy to me since I'd been using them to make jam and marmalade.  When I bought some citron in Italy today, the vendor gave me the same recipe and it seems that the fourth time was the charm.  When I got home, I pulled out the citrons, my mandoline, my best olive oil, some fleur du sel and gave it a try.  

My first thought after my first bite was, "why had I waited so long?"

Thinly slicing the citron on a mandoline
The texture of the white pith was soft and yielding like a porcini mushroom.  The flavour was sublimely delicate, like a fresh perfumed lemon with the volume turned down.  It reminded me not of a flavour but of a feeling:  The same feeling I get when I'm eating the first of the spring peas or of the scent of lettuce freshly cut from the garden or the smell that lingers on my hands after I've touched tomato branches.  Ethereal.  Fleeting.

I've never seen citron prepared this way on restaurant menus anywhere in Italy or France.  For me it's an example of pure terroir, right from the grower's trees and imagination.  
Adding citron to my favourite salad of artichokes, arugula and shaved Parmesan was a good idea too
The citron experience has taught me to be more humble, to cast off my "little Miss know-it-all" attitude I sometimes have when it comes to the vendors' advice.  With my right hand in the air, I hereby vow to listen as they offer up their recipes, meaty or otherwise.  They are the ones who know the subtleties of their products and how to consume them.  I owe them that.

With the same open heart, I bought some of Vincenzo's artichokes as instructed and they were fresh, sweet, and fabulous.  I sliced them, added some fresh arugula, shaved Parmesan, olive oil and sprinkled more chopped citron on top.

I think I'll return the favour and share my new recipe with the citron vendors.

Sunday, 23 March 2014

Our Olive Trees get a Haircut

Sometime around mid-March, little buds start to appear on our ancient olive trees.  Not long after that, Darrio arrives to give them their biennial haircut. 


Trimming olive trees is no easy task, best left to the professionals like Darrio. 

Our olive trees are very tall, some have been estimated at 800-1,000 years old with trunks as wide as a Smart Car.  Each of them is gnarled with age, like an old arthritic oak tree. They always make me feel so young, like we're just passing through and long after we're gone and forgotten, they'll live on.

Despite their advanced age, by September they each produce masses of little olives and a profuse number of leaves, year after year without any help nor interference from us.

We like to keep our trees trimmed neatly but not as severely as you see in some public parks here where they resemble coiffed poodles more than majestic olive trees. 

Our guidance to Darrio is classic:  to trim the trees so that a swallow could fly through the  branches without touching its wings.  So off he goes. 

For a week or so, the usual stillness of our garden is broken with the constant sound of Darrio's gas powered olive branch cutter.  From early morning to late evening, his generator growls.  "Chunk" we hear as he cuts through a branch, "Swoosh" as the branches heavy with slate coloured leaves hits the ground.  It takes him almost a day to trim each tree and by the time he's finished, the base of each tree is piled a metre high with branches and leaves.  It's so tempting to jump on the pile and throw everything around like a kid playing in fall leaves but we don't;  the olive branches are hard as steel and the leaves are capable of slicing skin.

Old olive wood on the wood pile
And speaking of olive trees, while I was poking around the garden last week I found a little surprise tucked into one of the trunks.  Seems like all the rain we've had recently revealed that one of our past gardeners was keeping a secret... Based on the shape of the bottle, he was Burgundy fan!

You're next!